Sri Lanka

TL;DR: Fly into Colombo (from Kuala Lumpur, get maps and train timetables), train to Kandy (temples, poor elephants, free food), train to Anuradha via Polgahawela (Unesco protected ruins full of nappies), train to Jaffna (beaches, dangerous ferries, free food in a Hindu temple, Conjunctivitis outbreak), bus to Uppuveli via Trincomalee (beach, snorkeling, beach, diving, beach), bus to Dambulla (Lions Rock in Sigiriya, Cave Temple), bus to Kandy and train to Haputale (tea plantations, hikes to mountains), bus to Arugam Bay (beach, bird watching), bus to Tissamaharama (safari in Yala Nation Park), bus to Matara (go to Mirissa beach), bus to Galle (old Dutch fort), train to Colombo (flying home via Dubai).

Colombo

Amy and I didn't do much in Colombo. The main goal was to find food, which proved to be rather difficult on a Sunday afternoon, and to decide where to go next. Equipped with a handy train map, some hostel names and an itinerary that somehow materialized in Amy's thoughts we ventured off to Kandy the next day.

Kandy

The short distance from Colombo to Kandy took its time with the brittle but fun train. Once arrived, we ignored the usual offers from Tuktuk drivers at the train station and walked to our hostel. Slowly but surely I realized why the Tuktuk drivers were trying to charge a lot though: the Downtown City Hostel was all but in Downtown and quite a hike uphill.

Poya day (full moon) was going on while we were in Kandy. And it wasn't just a regular Poya, it was THE most important Poya day. Which meant big celebrations at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, elephant parades, shows on stages broadcasted on the nations TV and most important for us: free food for all! Being a foreigner there and glimpsing over a fence meant: "Oh hey there, you curious? Please, skip the queue! Here's your plate." This was the best meal I had so far in Sri Lanka, and it wasn't topped by anything else during the rest of our stay. The lack of cutlery didn't impact this the slightest bit (Sri Lankans eat rice and curries with their fingers by forming little balls, an interesting experience).

Anuradhapura

Anuradhapura is one of the ancient cities and the whole area is scattered with ruins and temples. The site is recognized as an UNESCO world heritage site and so you should pay the entrance fee. Normally this is done by going into a visitor center and then showing the receipt to some random officer. Or you're Amy and just ignore these officers (which didn't work in the end because I made the mistake of trying to film our little cycling tour just before the corner where these officers stood. Having the phone in one hand, he basically pulled me off the bike as I wasn't fast enough). Turning around and entering from the backside of the city works though, as does telling that you're going back to your hotel.

Jaffna

From Anuradhapura we moved farther up north to Jaffna with the only recently reopened train line. The city has only recently been opened to tourists without special permits and consequently there's not much going on yet. Some northern beaches and lighthouses were blocked by military while we were there. Instead we ventured west to some beaches (where we met an unhappy Bangladeshi studying abroad in Jaffna with two of his socially awkward local friends) and the temples on the outlying islands.

The ferries to these islands were just slightly dubious. A good hundred people in life vests stuffed into a tiny boat that only had one exit - about the size of 50x50cm...

We were starving when we arrived on Nainativu and were hoping to find a curry restaurant or some other place to get food. Nothing. But to our luck someone was pointing us towards the Sri Nagapooshani Amman Kovil temple where we got free food again. Okay, not free, but up to our donation.

The conjunctivitis (which I probably caught in Kandy or Anuradhapura) broke out and I my eyes were looking like I've been in a serious fist fight.

Trincomalee/Uppuveli

Beach time. Snorkeling. And some diving. Meeting Gareth (the best friend of the brother of Amy's friend Laura).

Dambulla/Sigiriya

Dambulla was our base to explore Sigiriya, the famous rock in the middle of an otherwise completely flat area with an ancient temple on top of it. There's also the cave temples (dozens of sitting and lying and praying buddhas) and outside the largest buddha figure of the world (in this particular pose...).

Haputale/Ella

After Dambulla we took a bus back to Kandy and boarded a train to Haputale. Despite the rain the train journey was through epic scenery. Tea plantations in between beautiful lush forest, mountains and the occasional village.

From Haputale we went to Lipton's seat, a viewpoint in one of the tea plantations nearby. At the viewpoint we met a Sri Lankan family, now living in the USA and on holiday in their former home. They took as along in their car and drove us first back to the Dambatenne Tea Factory, then on to the Bamabarakanda Falls - Sri Lanka's highest waterfall and lastly to Ella where we did the short hike up to Little Adam's peak.

I would have preferred to visit the Horton Plains afterwards, but my lack of planning and desire to travel alone, as well as the weather and costs crossed that.

Arugam Bay

Instead we went to Arugam Bay. More beach time. Most people go surfing there, but somehow I'm not really interested in that sport. Instead I got a bike from the hotel and explored the surrounding lakes and their wildlife. This included going on a little boat safari run by local fishermen who now make their living out of this since one of the lakes became a national park.

Tissamarahama

After saying good bye to Amy in Arugam Bay I went down to Tissa (the ususal abbreviation) where I met again with Gareth to do a Safari in the Yala National Park. The park is known for its Leopards and the occasional elephant. And lucky us, we could actually spot a Leopard crossing the street. Other than being a base for the safaris, there's absolutely nothing going on in Tissa (save the rude hoteliers throwing you out if you don't book the safari with them).

Matara/Mirissa

From Tissa Gareth and I went on to visit Mirissa, a nice strip of beach on the south cost and the starting point for whale watching trips when it's the season for it. It wasn't when we were there, so we just had a quick bite and swim in rough sea.

Galle

The city of Galle is built around the former Dutch fort. The fort itself and the part of the city inside it is the main attraction. Scattered with galleries, good restaurants, shops and museums, it makes for a nice day of walking around.

I left Galle by train and went back to the Bed Hostel in Colombo. Accidentally I ran into Amy again and we went to a Pub Quiz for our last night out before flying home.